March 22, 2008
The crossing—Shaktoolik to Koyuk
One of the most intimidating sections of the Iditarod trail for mushers and human-powered trail users is the 30-mile crossing of sea ice included in the route from Shaktoolik to Koyuk. This is windy country anyway, but sea ice offers no protection whatsoever.
This morning, the wind continued from the north at a steady 30 mph as we left Shaktoolik. Here's Kenji asking for directions to the trail out, always a time-saver.
Out on the ice, the wind would gnaw at cracks in your clothing as you banged over sastrugi drifts, but all the markers were visible and we made it in a few hours. Contrast that with the 14 it took Andy and I to cross on skis in 2000 (though we had a much faster trip across in 2001, about six hours).
Here I saw the biggest difference between ski travel and snowmachine. With the big wind, I felt cold on the machine for the first time, but skiing would have been impossible today.
The snogos are impressive machines. Tohru and I are on Ski Doo Skandic 550 wide-tracks and Kenji is riding a lighter Ski-Doo 440. They are new machines and start easy, even in the cold, and Matt at Veco in Fairbanks has extended the windshields of Tohru's and my machine. We ducked behind them many times today.











3 Comments on The crossing—Shaktoolik to Koyuk »
March 22, 2008
Christine from Pennsylvania @ 8:50 pm:
i am finding it so amazing that you are so far "out there" that you are still able to blog and to give up to date reports. i'm so glad you are - just as i followed the iditarod - i'm now following your trek!!
thanks for sharing your experience with those of us who can't begin to imagine what it's like where you are at right now.
brownie @ 10:12 pm:
happy birthday neddie! i got excited when Kristen said you were headed to Kaltag - while it seemed strange and a little out of your way, i'll be there on monday and i thought i could bring you a proper chocolate birthday cake. ah well, perhaps when you come home. Cobbie says to 'rock on' - not sure what that means. Anna would say something, but she's asleep. if she were awake, i bet it be something like, "'Lo?" or "da-da" while pointing at the door. Poops, no doubt, would say something with her nose! we miss you - have a good rest of your trip and i'll see you when you get home…
April 12, 2008
Victor Crivello @ 6:38 pm:
I'm a Simi retired field environmentalist who read your article in Alaska magazine last month.
Great stuff. Changes are a coming but that’s not new. I wish I were 35 again. I’m working with nine charter schools in Chicago. You might hear from some of those kids next fall.
Stay safe
Captain Vic