Named for Glieb Shishmarev, who sailed with Otto Kotzebue back in the day.

We rode about 80 bumpy miles in about a straight line on the shore of the frozen Chukchi Sea, having left the Bering behind. Probably never got above zero, but with the spring sun and all our snowmachining clothes, we are impervious.

Here's Ikpek, an Alaska place name but no longer really a place. Cabin's a little drifted.

When I dared take my eyes off the snow bumps in front of me, I looked left to the infinite sea ice of the Chukchi Sea. I was thinking, hoping, I might see a creature I never have, a beast that might not be here when my daughter is my age. Then, I crossed a fresh track!

Didn't see the polar bear, who seems to be walking off the horizon of the moon. But his track was fresh, and he probably heard the whine of our machines. The white bear lives!!

Kenji drilled his last borehole today, a nice one in the sandy soil of Shishmaref. Teacher and good guy Ken Stenak hung out with us and then gave us some coffee to ward off the -9 degree air temp. So sunny it doesn't seem to matter.

Here's how far we've gone. More than 600 miles in two weeks. Tomorrow, we break trail to Deering, and then we continue on to Kotzebue. As Dan Bull might have said, this one's off the charts.